P.Tatchell
2 posts
Joined: 02/05/2005 16:19:13
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Front subframe mounting
Hello all, how well would this setup work for the front suspension: Solid brackets from frame to body, nylon tower washers competiton bushed lower engine steady, standard bushed top engine steady, new standard front subframe mounts. I know ideally you change the lot to one type but I have these parts and wondered if any improvement could be gained.. Thanks all. Peter.
Posted: May 08, 2005 12:59 PM
jimmer
55 posts
Joined: 08/11/2004 18:36:11
Location: Glastonbury United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
front subframe mount
hi all i was doing some tlc on my rover mini mayfair at the weekend and noticed my front subframe mount on the offside has broken does any one know what kind of job it is do replace it and what do i have to remove
any advice would be very thankful
Posted: Mar 27, 2008 03:49 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Do you mean the rubber-bonded mounting that holds the rear of the subframe to the front of the floor-pan? If so, and it's just the rubber that's come apart, they're very easy to replace: just jack up that corner of the car, undo the 4 bolts (two that go through the floor, two that go through the subframe) remove the old mounting and insert the new. The only tricky bit is aligning the holes to put the bolts through again - use a small screwdriver to wiggle it about, and don't tighten any of the nuts until you've got all 4 bolts back in.
Posted: Mar 27, 2008 04:43 PM
hi no its not that mount its the one at the front of the same frame theres a hole in the front valance for the bolt do i have to take the hole sumbframe down
many thanx
Posted: Mar 28, 2008 05:15 PM
hi is there ant one out there who could advise me on replaceing this mount
Posted: Mar 30, 2008 10:06 PM
S. Brookes
243 posts
Joined: 17/05/2005 11:14:28
Location: Frome United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
I replaced one of these on my old City. As you look at the front of the car, if the bolt has dropped down below the hole, then you'll need to jack up the sub-frame the level of the hole in the valance (not forgeting the ususal warnings about wheel chocks etc etc) then undo the bolts from underneath the car, where the subframe meets the front end, then pop the new one in. that should be it
Posted: Mar 31, 2008 12:47 AM
hi thak you for your reply do u know which mount ie part i would need as im a bit unsure
cheers
Posted: Mar 31, 2008 10:49 AM
This one: 21A2624
I'd recommend replacing both while you're at it.
You may need to lever the front panel away from the subframe to slide the new one in (use a large screwdrive or tyre lever), then be prepared to do a bit of jacking and levering to get the holes to line up.
In theory, it should only take 5 minutes....
Posted: Mar 31, 2008 11:04 AM
Jerry
1 posts
Joined: 20/05/2008 18:45:01
Location: Hertford United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
am refitting front subframe to 1967 traveller my question is on the front valance there are 2 holes each side one above the other which 1 does the subframe mount to
Posted: May 20, 2008 07:10 PM
On a 1967 car the front of the front subframe should be bolted directly to the valance, I think - no rubber mounting involved. You may need to use some thick washers to pack out the gap, if there is one. If you've got two holes, that sounds like the later valance, where the rubber mounting is bolted to the top hole and the bottom one is for the locating stud (or it may be the other way round - can't remember). There should still be a big hole in the middle.
Posted: May 22, 2008 03:00 AM
LUKEMULL
16 posts
Joined: 30/01/2008 17:58:51
Location: tunbridge wells United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
front subframe mounts
sorry it was the front subframe mounts, it just says that there is movement in the front subframe, so im guessing that its the mounts.
Posted: Jan 30, 2009 05:26 PM
Pierre Sundström
Joined: 28/11/2017 08:15:28
Location: Vännäs Sweden
Hello
first of all, sorry for the english(I’m from Sweden)
i bought a half finished Leyland 78.
when I look on how they essebeled the front subframe I got a little suspicious.
there are no space left between the front body and subframe so it’s mountet subframe-body- bushing- a bolt that holds everything in place.
shouldnt there be a bushing between the body and subframe? Or should it even be a bushing between the body and subframe?
/Pierre
Posted: Feb 14, 2019 02:33 PM
Banging when I brake
Sounds as though the front subframe rear mounting(s) may have failed.
Posted: Apr 08, 2006 05:17 PM
Gareth
Joined: 03/03/2005 20:07:50
Location: Crewe United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Uprated Bushes???
Hi i got a 1996 mpi mini i have recently replaced the front tie rod bushes with uprated ones i replaced them because its pulling to the right but its not tracking its improved it but it still pulls to the right but i have noticed the o/s rear front subframe mounting has split so im hopeing that by replaceing the subframe mounts and the tie rod ones that were split it will stop pulling to the right but i was wondering what would anyone recomond for the front subframe rear mount bushes because i have but uprated tie rod ones on after a month of putting on standard ones and it handles a lot better apart from pulling to right a bit still its made my steering nice and tight and not loose and sloply.
Posted: May 12, 2006 09:12 PM
pickme
672 posts
Joined: 08/09/2004 23:10:14
Location: Chippenham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
wings
Most of the weight of the front end of the car is taken on the turrets and is held in place by the two big bolts, one on each side. Youll see these near the master cylinders on one side and the wiper motor on the other. The rear front subframe mounts hold the subframe on square and take a lot of the accelerating and braking loads. The mounts onto the front panel are mainly there to keep the panels in place and not a lot more. If this wasnt the case, flip fronts wouldnt be possible. So, make sure your turret bolts and rear front subframe mounts are done up tight before you cut the front off and for goodness sake dont undo them until its all back on again and you should be fine.
Posted: Apr 10, 2006 12:35 PM
kevin shaw
26 posts
Joined: 24/01/2005 13:37:30
Location: Boston United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
knock knock
have you looked at the rear front subframe to body mounts. or even the steering could be loose in the u bolts
Posted: May 16, 2007 09:14 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Mini Cooper Engine Stabilizers
Hi, The usual culprit is the one between the engine block and the bulkhead to the lright of the engine above the clutch slave cylinder. If you let them get too slack they can tear the bracket off the bulkhead and then you have an expensive repair to make. The next one in at the bottom front and fixes the sump to the leading edge of the subframe - they had several places for mouting them depending on the year. The engine mounts are also critical to handling and they have a nasty habit of seperating. The righthand one is under the clutch housing and the lefthand one is under the crankshaft pulley - all viewed as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. Yo can fit the aftermarket stabilser kit that bolts from the engine to the grille but this is really only for racers as it transmits so much vibration. If you drive your cooper with any kind of spirit then expect to knock out the upper steady bar rubbers every 6-12 months. While you're down there - check the subframe to body front mounts as they shear away far too easily - fit solid alloy blocks and enjoy just how much better it makes the ride. Cheap and effective!
Posted: Nov 02, 2011 02:14 PM
Stoves
4 posts
Joined: 25/10/2011 20:23:44
Location: Grimsby United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Posted: Nov 02, 2011 06:19 PM
vibrating mini
3 candidates spring to mind
1. exhaust mounting rubber - if these have streched or snapped then the exhaust might be fouling and transmitting vibration
2. lower engine mounts - the rubber seperate from the metal backing plate and then the engine shifts under load as the suspension forces move the engine around (you'd be amazed at how much better they handle with new lower mounts in places)The problem is mainly caused by jacking the car up from the engine sump rather than the subframe.
3. front subframe forward mountings - these sit between the front edge of the subframe and the front valance. like the engine mounts the rubber shears from the backing plate. the subframe then rattles around in the front wings as it is only held in place by the rear mounts and turret bolts. The problem is caused through use and cr*p factory parts. The best thing to do is replace them with solid alloy spacers. Yep- you do get a little more road vibration but as the subframe sits correctly in the body it doesn't rattle the shell against the subframe. A big plus point is that the car also handles even more like a go-kart and it will now go exactly where you point it.
give these a check and let us know if it doesn't cure it.
Posted: Mar 11, 2011 03:15 PM
whole front panel
they are a pain to change as you have to drop the subframe a few inches to get them in which means undoing the track rod ends at the steering arms, undoing the intermediate exhaust hanger, the remote gearchange release mountsthe upper engine mount, speedo cable, fuel input line and both brake and clutch hydraulic lines at the bulkhead. the carb may have to come off as well to clear the bulkhead. Engine earth strap right inner wing, shock absorber top mounts and all the lower subframe mounts. You may need to remove the windscreen wiper motor as well to get to the left hand tower bolts. Personally I am surprised that the tower mount rubber gives this much looseness in the positioning but without the benefit of seeing them first hand the call is yours. I am going to differ from Tim on the choice of subframe mounts. Having fitted solid alloy front subframe mounts I can tell you that they much improve the handling. yes you do get more vibration but if you aren't doing lits of motorway work then most mini driver expect to live with a lot of noise. If you have a Mk3 bodyshell onwards then stick with the standard rubber rear subframe mounts as they stop the heelboard being turned into a one man jamaican steel band. On my Mk2 I have no rubber spacer - it is metal on metal as per the factory and this works well. you could try simply bolting your tower up tighter and changing the front subframe mounts. If that doesn't work then you know you have to drop the subbie.
Posted: Apr 22, 2013 09:51 AM